May 2009 Archives

I was down at the NJ Shore over the long holiday weekend, and out at a pretty nice Italian spot (Stella Marina) in the spiffed up town of Asbury Park.  Being at the beach and all, I was feeling like a lighter bodied red and ran across a Valpolicella on the wine list.  Even knowing that these are usually cheaper, quaffable light wines I felt like giving it a try since I hadn't had one in ages.  Our waiter, however, (who claimed to be in sommelier training) steered us away from it.  He said that it was a "Ripasso", explaining that this meant that the wine is made with grapes from only the second pressing and it would be a very light, thin wine.  Honestly, I didn't really believe this... I've never heard of any wine using only second press juice. 

Anyway, as chance would have it, the New York Times has a great article today in the dining section: Wine of the Times: Valpolicella: An Italian Mystery, Explained by Eric Asimov.  Among other things it cleared up my doubts about what Ripasso really means in this context. "Ripasso" does indeed mean "passed through again" but the article explains that in looking for bigger, richer Valpolicella wines the producers would add semi-dried grapes that could have been used for making Amarone or would ferment their wine with the skins and sediment of the semi-dried grapes used for Amarone.  And these methods refer to the Ripasso or Ripassa style.

Anyway, check out the article.  It's a good read and they rank their top 10 from a group tasting.  The #1 is the 2007 Vaona Valpolicella Classico ($16), and #2 which was also the "best value" the 2006 Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($12).

Frank Bruni reviewed Keith McNally's new place, the Minetta Tavern, on Wed. and gave it three stars (excellent).  Here is a link to the full review: Beef and Decor, Aged to Perfection.

McNally et al must be thrilled with the review, Bruni goes so far as to call it "the best steakhouse in the city".  The review explains that the beef is grain-fed Black Angus from Creekstone Farms that is aged in a special aging room and aged for six to seven weeks. The results... Bruni calls the cote de boeuf a "sublime hunk of glorious meat that you dream about hours later..." etc.  Wow.  I'm not a big meat person, but still Wow.

Of course the interior has that fabulous lived-in, warm patina that McNally is known for. With red nailhead banquettes, pressed tin ceilings and black and white tile floors.

The website for the restaurant is still under construction, but it will be here.

113 Macdougal Street (Minetta Lane), Greenwich Village; (212) 475-3850.

Celebrated chef Stephen Kalt (previously at Corsa Cucina at the Wynn Las Vegas) will join Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa's roster of acclaimed culinary talent with the summer 2009 opening of his Italian restaurant concept, Fornelletto. Further strengthening Borgata's position as a leading dining destination on the East Coast, Fornelletto will combine the experience of both an enoteca and an osteria, offering traditional, regional Italian fare prepared with only the finest, freshest ingredients, a hallmark of Kalt's cuisine. Fornelletto will appeal to a broad range of tastes by offering an array of dining options from quick casual bites to relaxed, multi-course meals, all served in a lively, inviting atmosphere. Adjacent to Fornelletto, Kalt will also open Roma, a fast-casual cafe offering pizzas, pastas and Panini, that places the same emphasis on top-quality ingredients and service.

Bringing more than 30 years of experience to Borgata, Kalt has received critical acclaim for his culinary concepts throughout the country. In 2004, Kalt was tapped to be Executive Chef of Wynn Las Vegas restaurant, Corsa Cucina where he received acclaim for his Mediterranean-inflected modern Italian menu. Prior to opening his celebrated restaurant at Wynn, Kalt garnered national recognition as the co-creator and chef of the celebrated Mediterranean restaurant Spartina in New York City. During its reign, Spartina was named "Top 5 Neighborhood Restaurants in New York" by Food & Wine magazine and earned two stars from the New York Times.

"I received much of my culinary education working in some of the greatest kitchens on the East Coast, and I am excited to return with the opening of Fornelletto," said Kalt, Chef/Partner of Fornelletto. "Borgata has become a true culinary destination within Atlantic City and I look forward to adding Fornelletto to the property's esteemed Restaurant Collection."

Kalt's menu at Fornelletto is inspired by his time living in and traveling throughout Italy. With traditional, regionally influenced cuisine, Fornelletto will offer simply prepared dishes that use only the finest ingredients. The menu will also highlight Neapolitan specialties that are rooted in bold flavors and locally sourced products. Guests with more adventurous palates looking to explore new flavor profiles can enjoy Kalt's inspired use of rare ingredients such as Mangalista pigs and sea beans grown in Oregon. While the menu is comprised of authentic Italian specialties, Kalt will also offer some traditional Italian-American options that are guaranteed to be crowd pleasers.

Highlights of Fornelletto's menu include a fresh Mozzarella Bar serving flavorful varieties of handmade mozzarella paired with salumi and fresh sauteed vegetables; chilled and hot antipastas; a variety of Sfusi such as Aroncini with Veal ragu; Neapolitan pizzas including the Prosciutto di Parma with fresh Arugula; signature house-made pasta dishes like the Neopolitan Carbonara with Spaghetti, Bacon and Fried Hen's Egg; fresh Pesce options such as Diver Scallops with Grilled Radicchio and Pancetta; and perfectly prepared Carne selections, including the 16 Hour Lamb with Pencil Asparagus, Sea Beans, Polenta and Mint Sugo.

Kalt will work closely with Borgata's Executive Pastry Chef Thaddeus Dubois, who previously served as the former White House Pastry Chef. Together, they will create homemade gelati and sorbets along with other traditional Italian desserts including Fresh Peach Crostata, Bombolino filled with Chocolate Pastry Cream and Raspberry Jam, and the ever-popular Tiramisu. Kalt will also collaborate with Anjoleena Griffin-Holst, the property's Wine Director, to incorporate a selection of regionally-based wines that also maintain a great commitment to value. Fornelletto's wine list will feature a "50 Under $50" section, reflecting the restaurant's desire to accommodate all guests' palates and price points, whether ordering wine by the glass, cortinos or full bottles.

Roma, the restaurant's cafe concept, will serve thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, handmade pasta, perfectly grilled Panini, fresh salads, aromatic espresso and delicious Italian pastries. Roma will remain open from breakfast until late at night, welcoming diners throughout the day. While Roma is meant for diners on-the-go, every item on the menu will be prepared with the same high quality ingredients as at Fornelletto. Many of these ingredients, such as hand-turned artichokes, are not typically found in more casual restaurants.

Kalt will join Borgata's stellar roster of chefs and restaurants including Wolfgang Puck (Wolfgang Puck American Grille), Bobby Flay (Bobby Flay Steak), Michael Mina (SeaBlue, A Michael Mina Restaurant), Michael Schulson (Izakaya - A Modern Japanese Pub), Geoffrey Zakarian (The Water Club by Borgata) and restaurateurs Marc and Greg Sherry (Old Homestead Steak House). Fornelletto and Roma will be the sole Italian properties in the Restaurant Collection.

SOURCE Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa

The Rowes Wharf Sea Grille, the new waterfront restaurant at the Mobil five star Boston Harbor Hotel, has opened in time for spring weather and terrace dining. The new restaurant celebrates its spectacular harborfront setting on Rowes Wharf by showcasing the best offerings of the sea. Simple, fresh cuisine; contemporary, nautical-influenced design; and a vibrant harbor setting combine for the ultimate waterfront dining experience.

"I am proud of how well our associates have prepared for this exciting opening," says Paul Jacques, general manager. "We are all looking forward to welcoming our guests and treating them to exceptional service and cuisine."

Chef Daniel Bruce, executive chef of the Boston Harbor Hotel for more than twenty years, has created a menu that features the freshest seafood, simply but artfully prepared. The harbor directly outside the windows of the Rowes Wharf Sea Grille leads to some of the richest fishing regions in the world, and the menu will change frequently to reflect the best of the local catch. In the warm weather months, diners will have the option of experiencing Chef Bruce's exceptional cuisine inside the new contemporary space or outside on the expansive terrace overlooking the most picturesque spot along Boston's waterfront.

The Rowes Wharf Sea Grille is more than a new restaurant, it offers an entirely new dining experience before unavailable in Boston. The setting is the most scenic and historic spot along the Boston waterfront. The design is contemporary and minimalist with accents that celebrate the sea. Diners might feel they are onboard a sleek, modern yacht. The anchor of the Rowes Wharf Sea Grille dining experience, however, is the exceptional cuisine artfully prepared by Chef Bruce.

"We are fortunate to live in an area with a wealth of seafood, and I have always enjoyed the challenge of creating dishes that enhance the incredible range of flavors found in the fish and shellfish of our waters," says Bruce. "I am very excited that the opening of the Sea Grille at the Boston Harbor Hotel will offer exceptional service and incredible water views, along with a new approach to seafood dining."

SOURCE Boston Harbor Hotel

Vacationers and locals basking in the sunny Hamptons this summer will once again enjoy delicious, high-quality groceries, courtesy of FreshDirect, one of the nation's leading online gourmet food purveyors and delivery services. Beginning May 14, 2009, FreshDirect will resume its Hamptons summer service, offering the freshest seasonal and local produce and foods, including barbecue-ready fresh foods, competitively priced groceries and bulk items, for the ultimate in summertime convenience.

From local, fresh fruit and vegetables to high-quality meat and sustainable seafood, FreshDirect provides hundreds of options to satisfy the cravings of hungry Hamptonites. Those looking to keep their summer bodies in shape will love FreshDirect's organic and all-natural selection, including locally grown leafy greens, asparagus and fruit juice. For those looking to stock-up the summer house, FreshDirect also carries the essentials, including bulk items, health and beauty products, cleaning supplies and frosty beverages delivered right to your door. Avoid the nuisance of packed grocery stores and enjoy more fun in the sun!

"Summer is a great time to unwind with friends and family and enjoy fun outdoor activities -- from picnics at the beach to barbecues with friends -- and our Hamptons service is designed to help customers maximize this precious time," said Steve Druckman, Chief Marketing Officer, FreshDirect. "Our tasty, chef-prepared meals, sustainable seafood and local produce will only add to this summer's enjoyment."

Whether it's a Kansas City rib barbecue or a veggie wrap and tuna nicoise salad picnic, FreshDirect's seasonal menu is packed with a variety of delicious fresh foods that are the perfect companion to a wide range of summer activities and a healthy, on-the-go lifestyle. FreshDirect provides fresh, convenient solutions that match this way of life.

FreshDirect will commemorate Memorial, Independence and Labor Day with weekly top picks destined for tasty celebrations, all on sale. This year's Memorial Day picks include full rack grill-ready ribs, boneless rib eye steak and Karl Ehmer chicken bratwurst, all 50% off. Visit freshdirect.com today for a complete list of holiday picks and special offers.

Delivery zones include full service in the towns of East Hampton, Amagansett, Southampton, Bridgehampton, Westhampton, Sag Harbor, Hampton Bays and select surrounding areas. Customers residing in these towns can schedule home deliveries between noon and 8 p.m. each Thursday and Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. each Saturday. Existing FreshDirect customers can easily add their Hamptons address to their account at checkout. Orders must be complete by 7 p.m. on the previous night.

More details about FreshDirect's products and services can be found on its Web site: http://www.freshdirect.com/.

The Roosevelt Hotel's rooftop lounge, mad46 (corner of Madison and 46th), recently reopened its skies to warmer breezes. Now back in full swing, the lounge is open five days a week, Monday through Friday from 5 p.m. until midnight. Panoramic views of Times Square and Madison Avenue entice guests back to this Midtown Manhattan hideaway.

Now in its second season, mad46 is offering new indoor space with 1,300 square feet and outdoor rooftop awnings. mad46 now serves as a dual purposed rooftop lounge perfect for rainy afternoons and escaping the summer heat. Two 12-foot sliding glass doors allow guests to enjoy an unsurpassed view of Manhattan and a mirrored open flow design makes it easy for bar patrons to move freely between the indoor and outdoor space.

mad46 is serving up an incredible signature drink list, including the Mad Mojito, complete with a white-chocolate stick and shaved coconut, as well as a salute to the hotel's namesake, Teddy Roosevelt, with the espresso Teddy-Tini. New and deliciously creative cocktails are now available such as mad46 Rocks, Absolut and pineapple juice garnished with rock candy, and the Ultimat 46'er, an Ultimat Vodka and Sauvignon Blanc creation served over ice with freshly muddled grapes. Along with its signature drink list, mad46 also offers palate-pleasing lite fare.

Check out the lite fare food menu and cocktails list.

An exclusive elevator, accessible from the 46th Street entrance, ascends directly to the lounge. Above the hustle and bustle of the city, this unpretentious after-work hot spot does not sacrifice service and spaciousness as ultra-trendy bars in the city often do. Its feel is cosmopolitan and relaxed, refreshing guests with ultra chic surroundings and elegantly minimal furnishings.

Following a national trend, Westchester County residents buffeted by the struggling economy are downsizing their out-to-dinner experiences, leading restaurants to cook up delicious deals, according to Zagat Survey's 2009/2010 Westchester/Hudson Valley Restaurants Survey, released today on ZAGAT.com. In the Survey, based on the collective opinions of 4,502 local diners who together consumed nearly 640,000 restaurant meals in the past year, 46% of surveyors say they are eating out less often, 42% are being more attentive to prices when ordering, 37% of surveyors are eating at less-expensive places and 18% are cutting back on alcohol.

The dining downturn may also be a response to rising prices. The average cost of a meal in Westchester is $38.99 - a 3.5% increase from last year's Survey - making the region among the most expensive in the country, just below New York City ($40.78) and New Jersey ($39.24). On the bright side, many restaurants are rolling out their own stimulus packages to lure local diners.

Zagat's 2009/10 Westchester/Hudson Valley Restaurants Survey covers 955 local eateries with ratings and reviews available as a guidebook, on ZAGAT.com and via ZAGAT TO GO(TM) - Zagat's mobile application for iPhone, BlackBerry and PDAs - providing portable access to 40,000 Zagat-Rated establishments worldwide, top lists, photos, maps, online reservation capabilities and more.

Farm-to-Table for Less: Despite tightening dining budgets, the green movement continues to take hold, with 70% of surveyors saying it's important that the food they eat is locally grown. Although 53% say they're willing to pay more for organic food, and another 55% will pay more for sustainable fare, a new spate of cheaper, eco-friendly options means they don't have to. While not inexpensive, The Barn at Bedford Post lures locavores for seasonal American fare priced steps below the inn's flagship Farmhouse restaurant. Likewise, Blue Hill Cafe in Pocantico Hills offers wallet-friendly bites from the same farm-fresh ingredients used at its parent, Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Now joining the fray is Sweet Grass Grill in Tarrytown, spotlighting grass-fed beef burgers and local produce.

"Westchester and the Hudson Valley have long been popular destinations to find locally grown ingredients," said Tim Zagat, CEO and co-founder of Zagat Survey. "Restaurateurs are capitalizing on their resources and the growing trend toward locally and sustainably raised food to please their patrons and stay competitive in today's market."

Big Ticket, Not-So-Big Tabs: Even the county's swankiest eateries are shifting their focus toward value. X20 Xaviars on the Hudson in Yonkers - voted Most Popular this year - features two levels of dining: formal New American fare upstairs, and more casual small plates and cocktails downstairs in its Dylan Lounge. Special-occasion mainstay Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua now offers a New American bar bites menu, and Rye's legendary French La Panetiere has loosened its prix fixe only format, adding lower-cost a la carte options. Meanwhile, diners seeking an economical celebrity chef experience fill up on pizzas at the Mario Batali backed Italian, Tarry Lodge, in Port Chester.

Winners: Once again, Xaviars at Piermont takes the No. 1 spots for both Food and Service. Peter Kelley's "beguiling" New American cuisine is rated 29 out of 30, and the restaurant gets a 28 for its "top-level" staff. Kelley's newest entry, X20 Xaviars, set on the Historic Yonkers Pier, is rated the area's Most Popular restaurant. Top Decor goes to Equus at the Castle on the Hudson in Tarrytown, where patrons appreciate the "magnificent" River views in the "lap of luxury." The Valley's Top Newcomer is New Paltz's hearty New American 36 Main, praised for an "adventurous menu" and "fair prices." Other celebrated arrivals include Tarry Lodge, Spadaro, Chutney Masala and Arielle.

Hudson Valley Values: Simplicity and comfort seem to be watchwords for Hudson Valley restaurateurs brave enough to open in a sour economy - but that doesn't mean quality lost out. Mid-region, Red Hook gained Flatiron, a bistro specializing in updated American fare, and Woodstock welcomed Cucina, dispensing Italian favorites. The bistro quotient got a boost in Rockland County with Nyack's Velo, an American hot spot, and Piermont's Sidewalk Bistro, offering robust French classics. Responding to the times, a few established eateries paused for menu makeovers. Amenia's De La Vergne emerged as a classic steakhouse, while Rhinebeck's Starr Place and Rosendale's Bywater Bistro now offer simpler (read: more affordable) grub on their New American menus.

Best Buys: Westchester and Hudson Valley restaurateurs strive to make fine dining accessible to all. At top-rated restaurants such as La Panetiere, X20 Xaviars or Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar, diners can enjoy bargain-priced prix fixe lunches for only $25. Dinner deals for $35 or less can be enjoyed at Ristorante Buona Sera, Crabtree's Kittle House, Relish or John Michael's. Locals will always find a good Bang for their Buck at standbys like Walter's, Red Rooster, Bread Alone, Apple Pie Bakery and Bagels & More.

Weighing In: When dining out in Westchester and the Hudson Valley, 73% of surveyors say it is important to have low-carb, low-fat or heart-healthy items available on the menu. In addition, 71% of local diners would support a ban on trans fats from food preparation in restaurant kitchens, and 60% would say they would like to see calorie counts listed on the menu.

The Guide: As with all Zagat Surveys, 2009/2010 Westchester/Hudson Valley Restaurants is made by consumers for consumers. In addition to Top Lists for Popularity, Food, Decor, Service and Best Buys, the guide lists the Key Newcomers and maps the Most Popular restaurants. 2009/2010 Westchester/Hudson Valley Restaurants ($14.95) was edited by John Bruno Turiano, Judith Hausman, Julia Sexton, Lynn Hazlewood, Lorraine Gengo and Michelle Golden. The guide is available at bookstores and other retail outlets, through ZAGAT.com or by calling 888-371-5440. Content is also available online at ZAGAT.com and on mobile devices via ZAGAT.mobi and ZAGAT TO GO(TM) for iPhone(TM), BlackBerry and smartphones.

SOURCE Zagat Survey, LLC

DiningInfo, the restaurant survey company, recently reported robust growth in the number of restaurants that permit patrons to bring their own wine. This is good news for both budget-conscious diners and wine aficionados.

After surveying 1,286 restaurants in the New York area in the month of April, DiningInfo added 172 BYO-friendly restaurants, 156 of which previously did not permit BYO. Now, there are a total of 3,003 restaurants in the New York area that permit BYO, 574 of which have no charge for corkage.

During the same period, 84 other restaurants surveyed were found to have closed down, suggesting that the survivors discovered BYO as a viable way to attract more business in these difficult economic times.

Complete details about all 3,003 restaurants in the New York area that currently permit BYO, including their corkage fees, can be found at www.GoBYO.com.